Real Fighting Garb, Part 2

A young redheaded white woman, standing in the doorway between a messy kitchen and bedroom, and wearing a long-sleeved red caftan that comes just past her knees, with a grey-blue lining showing at the folded-over neckline and front overlap.
This was before I cut the neck down in front to fit me better. Necks take up space, did you know that? I was totally surprised to discover this very new and shocking information.
Next part of the fighting garb: a caftan!

Loose research for 12th-century Persian caftans suggests pleated side panels, rather than the more wasteful shaped sides of later garments, to give the fitted torso and flared hip silhouette.

A close-up of the hem of a piece of red fabric lined with grey-blue, with a pin holding the folded edge and a red-threaded needle stuck into the lining.
Again with my favorite hemming stitch.
After cutting and lining the fronts, back, and side panels, and finishing the edges of the side gussets (which run up into the sleeves to add a little more ease), I started pinning the side panels to the gussets.

An end-on photo of small pleats pinned in the valleys to another, flat, piece of fabric. The pleated fabric is red lined with grey-blue, which makes them pretty thick.
"Is this good enough?" No. No it isn't.
I pinned them right sides together and with the side panels upside down, so when I flipped the pieces back I’d have a nice clean finish on the outside, with no visible stitching.

An end-on photo of small pleats pinned in the valleys to another, flat, piece of fabric. The pleated fabric is red lined with grey-blue, which makes them pretty thick, and they're so dense that the folds fill all the available space.
So many little pleats...and yes, it does bother me a bit that they aren't quite the same depth.
I pinned pleats until there was no room to add another set, stitched through the valleys and went back with a tight whipstitch along the upper edge to make sure the pieces were firmly attached.

A smooth piece of red fabric with a densely pleated panel of red fabric seamed to it.
Sore fingers at the end of it, but it looks gorgeous.

A close-up of the edge of a piece of red fabric lined with grey-blue, with a pin holding the turned-in edges together at the corner, and a red-threaded needle stuck in the fabric just past the existing whip stitches over the edge.
Teeny tiny whipstitch.
Any other raw edges were also whipstitched shut, and the pieces whipstitched together to reduce seam bulk and give me as much room as possible—I need to be able to move easily and without tearing seams open.

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